Why Secondhand Isn’t Enough If We Continue Consuming the Same Way

by Julia Rütgers

Author's illustration based on data from PwC (2024), retrieved via Statista

Secondhand clothing is more popular than ever. Platforms like Vinted are growing rapidly, and vintage fashion is seen as both cool and conscious. Often, buying secondhand is considered a statement against fast fashion. However, recent statistics paint a different picture: According to PwC (2024), 72% of young buyers primarily focus on the low price, with sustainability playing only a minor role. Meanwhile, total clothing spending in Germany continues to rise (Federal Statistical Office 2025). Secondhand is often seen as a symbol of sustainable fashion - but does this reputation hold up under closer scrutiny? This analysis, supported by recent survey data, shows that the growing interest in used clothing is often not driven by genuine criticism of consumerism, but by economic reasons. This is important because it forces us to reconsider our understanding of sustainable consumption and cultural responsibility. I argue that secondhand consumption alone is not enough as long as we don't fundamentally change our consumption patterns - because only reduced and conscious consumption can bring about true change in the fashion system.

While secondhand is commonly seen as an eco-friendly option, the reality is often different. As the PwC survey (2024) shows, most people buy secondhand not out of conviction, but for savings. The desire for exclusive vintage items or branded goods often outweighs the sustainability argument. This reveals a central issue: The impulse to consume remains the same, whether the item is new or used. Secondhand purchases don’t replace the culture of consumption - they conform to it. Where sustainable consumption is suggested, there is often a lack of real behavioral change. Looking at the spending figures reveals that consumption is not decreasing but increasing. According to the Federal Statistical Office of Germany (2025), German households spent about 76 billion euros on clothing in 2024 - more than double the amount spent since the early 90s. The abundance remains-the only difference is the number of ways to access it.

Author's illustration based on data from the Federal Statistical Office of Germany (2025), retrieved via Statista.

It seems that secondhand doesn’t replace new purchases but rather supplements them. Paying less allows consumers to buy more - the quantity stays the same, only the price changes. Therefore, a fundamental shift in consumer behavior seems unlikely. This shows that while the secondhand trend may initially appear as an alternative, it often reproduces the same consumption-driven patterns. Secondhand can be a step in the right direction - if it is accompanied by a fundamental reassessment of our consumption behavior. But as long as only the model changes, not the mindset, there is no real transformation. The principle remains: buy, wear, give away - just a second time.

Thus, no circular economy is created - rather, a parallel market that operates under similar mechanisms as fast fashion itself. If we want to view secondhand as resistance, we must honestly ask ourselves: is it about resource conservation, or just the good feeling of consuming "more sustainably"? Only by addressing this question can secondhand evolve into more than just another consumption format - it can become a catalyst for real cultural change.

The consumption of secondhand clothing is not an automatic guarantee for sustainable action. The data presented shows that consumption continues to grow, and the motives for secondhand purchases are often pragmatic - secondhand is simply another form of consumer behavior. Those who truly want to live more sustainably and make a difference must fundamentally consume less. Simply shifting to the secondhand market is not enough. It’s not enough to consume as we did before - just with used items because true change doesn’t begin in the shopping cart, but in the mind.

References:

PwC. (2024, December 17). Survey on reasons for purchasing secondhand items among Generation Y and Z in European countries in 2024 [Graph]. Statista. https://de.statista.com/statistik/daten/studie/1559672/umfrage/gruende-fuer-den-kauf-von-secondhand-artikeln/

Federal Statistical Office of Germany. (2025, March 7). Consumer spending of private households in Germany on clothing from 1991 to 2024 (in billion euros) [Graph]. Statista. https://de.statista.com/statistik/daten/studie/283616/umfrage/konsumausgaben-fuer-bekleidung-in-deutschland/

BIO:

Julia Rütgers completed her BA in Fashion and Design Management at AMD - Akademie Mode & Design in Hamburg. She has gained experience in various areas of the fashion industry, including influencer marketing, campaign development and trade marketing. Currently, she works in social media marketing at the e-commerce company About You, where she explores the intersection of fashion, brand communication and storytelling.