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Exploring the Traditional Colours of Japan in Tokushima

by Tessa Stetter


Watanabe’s studio, Tokushima, Japan, photo by Tessa Stetter
Watanabe’s studio, Tokushima, Japan, photo by Tessa Stetter

Indigo Dye Workshop at Watanabe’s Indigo Farm and Studio

From Kyoto to Watanabe’s Indigo farm and studio in Tokushima prefecture, it takes about 3 hours. After a bus ride and a train ride you will arrive at Ishii Station. The region of Tokushima has a rich and long history of Indigo, it used to be the largest producer of Indigo Pigment in Japan. With the invention of synthetic indigo dye in 1883 and since then big decline of demand for natural indigo pigments there are only a handful producers left who have specialized in the production of the natural indigo pigment. But there is hope that the traditional natural indigo production will be kept alive with the nowadays shifting mindset to a more sustainable lifestyle, because the demand is starting to rise again.


The plant Persicaria Tinctoria is the main ingredient for the indigo pigment. Out of the leaves the blue color can be sourced. These plants are used to harvest seeds for the new seedlings of indigo. Working together with a pig farmer at Watanabe’s, they use manure waste to convert it into a natural fertilizer for the indigo fields.



Watanabe’s studio, Tokushima, Japan, photo by Tessa Stetter
Watanabe’s studio, Tokushima, Japan, photo by Tessa Stetter

The studio of Watanabe’s is where the fermentation process and the dye process is happening. I took their indigo workshop there in which the whole production process of the indigo pigment as well as dye methods are being explained. You learn a lot of background knowledge, interesting facts about the pigment and they take the time to answer all of your questions.



Sukumo is the name of the dye, it consists of the fermented leaves of the indigo plant. The fermentation process is very time consuming; it takes four months, starting from October. At Watanabe’s production they are focusing on working sustainably. Only natural ingredients, like wheat bran or wood ash are being used to produce the final indigo vat.


For the Indigo vat the ingredients are being mixed together. For the best dye result the PH-value is being tested daily at Watanabe’s studio using small textile swatches and documenting the result in notebooks. Looking at the dye swatches, the intensity of the dye bath can be seen. With fresh indigo vats you can more easily get rich dark blues.



Watanabe’s studio, Tokushima, Japan, photo by Tessa Stetter
Watanabe’s studio, Tokushima, Japan, photo by Tessa Stetter

During the indigo workshop I had the chance to dye textiles I brought myself. Before dyeing the textiles several techniques to create patterns, called Shibori techniques, are  shown by Watanabe studio. These patterns are being made through the usage of elastics or clamps with wooden shapes. The fabric which is put between the wooden shapes and clamps or is tied with elastics will remain undyed parts.


This workshop at Watanabe’s was an amazing experience. I learned many new things about  dyeing, indigo and the historical background of the pigment. Seeing and hearing every detail of their production process was mind-blowing. You can book your indigo workshops via their website at Watanabe’s studio: https://watanabezu.com/dye/ 






Bio:

Tessa Stetter is an organic and natural fabric dyer and fashion designer based in Flensburg, Germany. Playing with different colours and patterns has always been the core of her creative practice. Since 2021, she has focused on natural dyeing through research and countless colour experiments, developing new knowledge fueled by curiosity for plants and colours. She launched her own label as a vessel to share this passion and knowledge in workshops on natural dyes, offered in English, German or Spanish. Get in touch with her or book your natural dye workshop via www.tessastetter.com.


 
 
 

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