Extremism in Style: Can Clothing Reveal Political Ideologies?

by Maja Webelhaus

Brand co-option, illustration by Maja Webelhaus, 2025

Fashion is about identity, and it always communicates something. Our outfits can send subtle political messages. In a world where identity is political (Gaub, 2012), what we wear can speak louder than we think.

This blog post explores the connection between the clothing styles of right-wing extremists and the brands they have co-opted to express their political identity. It also examines how some of these brands actively distance themselves from such associations.

According to the Lowy Institute, there has been a 320 percent increase in right-wing terrorism globally since 2020 (Khalil, 2022). While this rise is alarming, it's also important to recognize that clothing often used by extremist groups as a symbol of identity can lead to unfair assumptions about individuals who wear similar styles or brands.

In political theory, extremism is seen as the opposite of democracy. One of the main signs of extremist thinking is the refusal to accept different opinions and interests in society. This lack of tolerance for other perspectives is a key factor in identifying whether a political group should be considered extremist (Thieme & Konrad Adenauer Stiftung, 2023). Extremists often aim to present themselves as a group in opposition to all others who hold different views. This may be why they adopt similar clothing styles to express strength as a community and to downplay individual identity.

Right-wing extremism is marked by the belief that not all people are equal. At its core is the so called "ideology of inequality", which claims that some groups are naturally superior to others based on factors such as ethnicity, nationality, or culture (Thieme & Konrad Adenauer Stiftung, 2023). This makes right-wing extremism especially dangerous, as it directly challenges the fundamental democratic value of human equality.

Modern right-wing extremists no longer dress in overtly militant styles like skinheads or march in uniforms at demonstrations. Times have changed. Instead, they often wear the same brands, which are mostly mainstream but have a strong meaning within the scene. For example, brands like Lonsdale and Fred Perry are worn by members of the right-wing scene because certain designs, colors, or lettering can be subtly associated with their ideology without being overtly extremist. These brands allow for symbolic messaging that can reference historical far-right symbols while remaining outwardly mainstream (Rödel & Konrad Adenauer Stiftung, 2024). But extremists can’t be identified by clothing style alone  and similarly, the brands themselves are not inherently connected to right-wing ideologies. In fact, Lonsdale and Fred Perry have actively opposed their association with right-wing extremist groups.

Lonsdale launched the "Lonsdale Loves All Colours" campaign, promoting diversity and inclusivity. The brand also ceased supplying known right-wing extremist retailers and sponsored anti-racist initiatives such as the FC St. Pauli boxing club. Fred Perry implemented stricter distribution controls to prevent their clothing from reaching extremist groups. In 2019, the company stopped selling a specific black and yellow polo shirt in the US and Canada after it became associated with the Proud Boys, emphasizing their commitment to inclusivity and diversity (Freches, 2019). Both brands have taken clear steps to distance themselves from extremist affiliations and reinforce their original values.

So, neither a person nor their outfit—nor even a brand—should be judged or labeled too quickly. However, we must remain aware of the meanings that certain styles and symbols can convey within specific political contexts.

Bibliography:

Freches, D. (2019, 26. Juli). Fred Perry und Lonsdale: Wie sich zwei Modemarken gegen rechte Vereinnahmung wehrten. Deutschlandfunk Kultur. Abgerufen am 9. April 2025, von https://www.deutschlandfunkkultur.de/fred-perry-und-lonsdale-wie-sich-zwei-modemarken-gegen-100.html

Gaub, F. (2012). Kleider machen Politik. Internationale Politik, 4, 122–126. https://internationalepolitik.de/de/kleider-machen-politik

Khalil, L. (2022, 29. August). Rise of the Extreme Right: The new global extremism and the threat to democracy. Lowy Institute. Abgerufen am 9. April 2025, von https://www.lowyinstitute.org/publications/rise-extreme-right-new-global-extremism-threat-democracy 

Rödel, J. C. & Konrad Adenauer Stiftung. (2024, 24. Oktober). Rechtsextreme Dresscodes. EXTREMISMUS. Abgerufen am 7. April 2025, von https://www.kas.de/de/web/extremismus/rechtsextremismus/rechtsextreme-dresscodes 

Thieme, T. & Konrad Adenauer Stiftung. (2023, 11. Juli). Politischer Extremismus: Zwischen plausibler Theorie und Abgrenzungsproblemen in der Praxis. Geschichtsbewusst. Abgerufen am 7. April 2025, von https://www.kas.de/de/web/geschichtsbewusst/essay/-/content/politischer-extremismus-2 

BIO: Maja Webelhaus is a Masters student in Fashion Management at the Akademie Mode & Design in Munich, where she also completed her Bachelor's degree. Her academic interests focus on exploring how we, as scholars, can contribute to creating a more sustainable and responsible fashion industry.